LEWIS & CLARK
EXPEDITION
Diaries
of Lewis & Clark in Garfield County
May 3 1806 & May 4, 1806
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After wintering near the
mouth of the Columbia, Lewis and Clark started to retrace their journey
to the East. On arriving at the mouth of the Walla Walla River (Wallula)
the Indians suggested that they take the Nez Perce Trail, which would
make their trip to the mouth of the Clearwater shorter and easier than
following the swift waters of the Snake by canoe, around the great
northward curve of that stream. They traded their boats and other
articles for horses, and set out eastward over the ancient trail. On
Friday May 2, 1806, this party of thirty-two, besides Sacajawea's
"papoose" camped on the Patit Creek a short distance east of
Dayton. On the morning of May 3, they set out toward Garfield County.
The following is the full diary of Captain Lewis for that day:
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"This
morning we set out at 7 A.M. steered North 25 (degrees) East 12 Ms. to
Kimooenim Creek (Tucannon) through a high level plain. This creek is
about 12 yards side, pebbly bottom, low banks and discharges a
considerable body of water. It heads in the S.W. mountains and
discharges itself into Lewis River (Snake), a few miles above the
narrows. The bottoms of this creek are narrow, with some timber
principally cottonwood and willow., the underbrush such as is
mentioned on N.E. creek. The hills are high and abrupt. The land of
the plains is much more fertile than below, less sand and covered with
taller grass; very little of the aromatic shrubs (sage) appear in this
part of the plain. We halted and dined on this creek after which we then proceeded North
45 (degrees) E. three miles through high plain, (about the summit of this plain the
party entered Garfield County) to a small creek (Pataha) 5 yards wide
branch of the Kimooenim Creek, this stream falls into the creek some
miles below. The hills of this creek like those of the Kimooenim are
high, its bottoms narrow, and possesses but little timber; lands of
good quality a dark rich loam. We continued our route up this creek on
the N. side, 75 (degrees) E. 7ms. the timber increases in quantity,
the hills continue high. East 4 miles up the creek. Here we met
We-ark-koomt whom we have usually distinguished by the name of the
Big-Horn chief from the circumstance of his always wearing a horn of
that animal, suspended by a cord to the left arm. He is the first
chief of a large band of the Choppunish nation (Nez Perces). He had
ten of his young men with him. This man went down Lewis (Snake) River
by land as we descended it by water last fall quite to the
Columbia and I believe was very instrumental in procuring us a
hospitable and friendly reception among the natives. He had now come a
considerable long distance to meet us. After meeting this chief we
continued still up the creek bottoms N. 75 (degrees) E. 2ms. to the
place at which the road leaves the creek and ascends the hills to the
plain. Here we encamped in a small grove of cottonwood trees which in some
measure broke the violence of the wind. We came 28 Ms. today. It
rained, hailed, snowed and blowed with great violence the greater
portion of the day. It was fortunate for us that this storm was from
the S.W. and of course on our backs. The air was very cold. We divided
the last of our dried meat at dinner when it was consumed as well as
the balance of our dogs, nearly. We made but a scant supper and had
not anything for tomorrow; however We-ark-koompt consoled us with the
information that there was an Indian lodge on the river at no great
distance where we might supply ourselves with provisions tomorrow.
Our guide and the three young Wallawollahs left us this morning rather
abruptly and we have seen nothing of them since. The S.W. Mountains
appear to become lower as they proceed to the N.E. This creek reaches
the mountains. We are nearer to them than we were last evening."
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There
can be little doubt that the camp of Lewis and Clark on the night of May
3, 1806 was on the Pataha Creek near the foot of the old McKeirnan
grade, opposite the present sign board on the highway calling the
traveler's attention to this camping place.
Captain Clark's diary for May 3, 1806, is almost identical with that of
Captain Lewis. In fact it was Clark's custom to copy Captain
Lewis' notes when they were together. Lewis was better educated
and a better writer. Clark made several side excursions during the
course of the expedition and on such occasions was of course compelled
to write his own accounts, which were sometimes poorly written and
contained mistakes in grammar and spelling. His entries however
were accurate and to the point. The following is a quote from Captain
Lewis' diary of Sunday, May 4, 1806.
"Collected
our horses and set our early; the morning was cold and
disagreeable. We ascended the Lar'd (Larboard or left)
hills of the creek (Pataha) and steered N. 60 degrees E. 4
miles through a high level plain (Alpowa Ridge) to a ravine
which forms the source of a small creek (Stember Creek) thence
down this creek 75 (degrees) E. 8ms. to its entrance into
Lewis (Snake) River 71/2 miles below the entrance of the
Kooskooske (Clearwater River)."
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The Nez Perce Trail which the party
was following struck Stember Creek near the Stember Creek Bridge on the present
highway between Pomeroy and Lewiston. The earliest vehicle road followed
the course of the trail. Scars of the old road and trail and of numerous
parallel travois tracks can still be seen on the ridge immediately west of the
bridge, leading from the Alpowa Flat down to the Stember Creek bottom.
At
that time of the year Stember would carry considerable water and Lewis naturally
referred to it as the source of the Alpowa Creek which he followed to the Snake
River.
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